The morning of my first full day in Prague dawned bright and chilly. I had slept well and after a hearty continental breakfast, washed down with plenty of coffee was raring to head out and explore this beautiful city. Prague's Old Town, otherwise known as Stare Mesto was my destination, so after wrapping up properly against the cold I headed off in the direction of this historic part of Prague.
After 20 minutes or so of brisk walking I came to the Powder Gate Tower, an impressive stone structure that forms the entrance to this part of the Old Town. Pausing to admire the ornate, art-nouveau Obecni dum (Municipal House) I was soon in the heart of Old Town Square. The Christmas Market was still on, although being quite early in the morning, many of the stalls were just opening up. Although I was glad to see the back of Christmas at home, here the market seemed to add an almost magical festive feel to the occasion ,with its stalls selling hot mulled wine, roast chestnuts and all sorts of festive goodies.
After a good look around, during which I stopped to admire the famous Astrological Clock, I headed north along Parizska trida, diverting for a short while into the old Jewish quarter - an area known as Josefov. Eventually I reached the Manesuv Most Bridge and the large imposing Rudofinum. This impressive building is a concert hall, but during Czechoslovakia's first republic from 1918 - 1938, was the home of the country's parliament.
After pausing to admire the view of Prague's impressive castle and cathedral complex. I followed the curve of the river bank to the world famous Charles Bridge. I remember walking across this bridge on my first visit to Prague, back in 1984. This time the bridge appeared to be undergoing major renovation, with one side cordoned off at each end by scaffolding and barriers, to allow the stonework underfoot to be replaced. Despite the cold, Charles Bridge was much busier than it had been 25 years ago - I know because I have the photo's to prove it!
My goal for midday was Prague Castle, and after crossing the bridge and passing the baroque splendour of St Nicholas Church, I found a series of steep wide steps leading up to this part of the city - an area known as Hradcany. I thought at the time that this was the route up to the castle my friends and I had taken on that first trip, but with hindsight I believe we had climbed up via Nerudova instead. Whatever the way up, the view from the top was as spectacular and rewarding as ever.
Despite the cold, and the time of year there were hundreds of tourists milling around outside the palace gates. I had just missed the changing of the guard, but fancied a look inside St Vitus Cathedral. One look at the length of the queue though was enough to put me off that idea. It was already well past one o'clock, and I had been on my feet for the best part of three hours. Some liquid refreshment was clearly in order and I had it in mind to try and find the back-street pub my friends and I had visited back in 1984. I wandered out through a courtyard, but found it led to a bridge over the moat at the rear of the castle. I stopped to take a few photo's of the cathedral, but found that the road led past the Castle Gardens and out to the main tram route at the rear of the castle complex. The street housing the unspoilt pub was nowhere to be seen. Undeterred I wandered round in a large loop, back to the font of the palace and then descended back towards Mala Strana Square.
My goal now was an unspoilt pub listed in the Good Beer Guide to Prague & The Czech Republic called U Kocoura. Despite its location in the heart of the tourist district, the pub proved to be good to the guide's word, and was a real down to earth, locals' pub, with two smoke-filled rooms, plain tables and wooden benches, PLUS Bernard beer on draught. I enjoyed a couple of half litres of their tasty 12 degree lager, along with a large packet of locally produced crisps. It was good to sit down, out of the cold, and watch a bit of traditional Czech pub life, before heading back towards the Old Town for a bit more sight-seeing.
When I reached Old Town Square the Christmas Market was in full swing. I had a good look round and tried a plate full of the local potato cakes - a dish known as Bramboracky, served with an accompaniment of sauerkraut. Deciding that the mulled wine would not be a good idea I opted for a mug of hot chocolate instead, which proved just the right thing for keeping out the cold. By this time it was starting to get dark and the whole market area with its coloured lights and huge Christmas tree had taken on a real festive flavour.
From the Old Town I headed off towards the New. I was making for a modern cellar bar called Ferdinanda, which takes its name from the brewery who's beers it sells - Ferdinand. The brewery itself is named after Archduke Franz Ferdinand, who's assassination in Sarajevo, on 28th June 1914 triggered the start of the First World War. The brewery's home-town of Benesov was the residence of the unfortunate Archduke - hence the name.
I really liked Ferdinanda as a place to drink; the food looked good as well, and was reasonably priced. However, it was a bit too early for my evening meal, so I sat watching the young, mainly Czech, clientele whilst enjoying Ferdinands pale, plus their 5.5% special, dark amber beer called Sedm Kuli.
I was a bit unsure where to head for next, but armed with my Prague Beer Guide I managed to track down an excellent restaurant called Kyvadlo, just the other side of Wenceslas Square. This cosy, and friendly establishment has four types of Bernard beer on tap. I opted for, and stuck to, the superb Specialni cerny lezak, a 5.5% dark beer, and one of the finest of this type of beer that I have tasted. It was an excellent accompaniment to my meal of pork fillet, stuffed with spinach and accompanied by gratin potatoes and grated carrots. I made a note to return there if I had the chance. After that, it was a quick No 9 tram ride back to my hotel, and bed.
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